In my previous post concering my favorite aperitif, the Negroni, I mentioned some variations (the fact is that I only drink a "true" Negroni when I go out--it's easier to explain to most bartenders: one shot each, of gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari...). Well, to that post of variations, I must add yet another variation -- employing a new (to me) bitter liqueur. But first, a short aside: When it comes to bitter liqueurs, it seems safe to say that in general the American palate has not managed to cultivate much of a taste for such flavors. We've embraced sweet, salty, sour, and even that "fifth" flavor distinction, "umami." However, when it comes to bitter, most Americans seem to think it causes more pain than pleasure. And, of course, if the "pleasure principal" is correct (at least in this context), then pleasure is pursued, and pain avoided. Thus "bitter refreshment" is an oxymoron in these United States.
Well, at least one American company with certain "old world" sensibilities has gone against the flow over the years, hence keeping a "foot in the door" of bitterness.... Torani! Yes it's true, they produce "Amer" a bitter liqueur that stands with the likes of Campari, Cynar, and the unobtainable Italian Zucca (a rhubarb-based bitter liqueur that's recently made a "blip" on my aperitif radar screen, after repeatedly finding their ads in the Italian magazine Focus, a periodical published by Gruner+Jahr-Mondadori that reminds me of something like a combination of Popular Science + Omni + Ripley's Believe it or not).
Fruit or vegetable-based bitters are a must when making a Negroni-type aperitif, and I've gladly added Torani Amer to the choruses sung by my choir of bitterness. Not all who audition make it in though; I found Aperol to be too sweet, orangy, and not bitter enough, much like Cinzano's Arancia, an orange/vermouth? aperitif that I've only found in Canada so far.
If there's one thing I like more about Torani Amer than anything else, I'd have to stay that it is the lack of sweetness--and, it's strength. While many of the bitter liqueurs run in the 30-50 proof range for alcohol, Torani weighs in at a full 70. When you mix this with something like the Arancia above (or, SanBitter (rosso), by San Pellegrino) you have the beginnings of a beautiful friendship, which most of the light weight bitters would make cloyingly sweet. The only downside to Torani Amer is that it's not quite bitter enough (in my humble opinion), so I find myself splashing in some orange bitters by Fee Brothers, etc. Oh, and that reminds me: If you like bitters and haven't already seen it, the CHOW editorial team put up an astoundingly wonderful article on how to prepare your own [concentrated] bitters!!! CHECK IT.
The Four Spagyric (Alchemical) Seasons
